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Thursday, April 8, 2010

More Buenos Aires

Argentines really love soccer and show it. Players in the Argentine league love to shoot. My expectations for Argentine steak may have been set too high.  If you order something randomly here, you'll get something with meat in it.  And Argentines love hot dogs.  Hot dog stands are like Starbuck's in Seattle.

Warning:  Long post.  I may edit it to make it shorter and more interesting.  But probably not.  At least I figured out how to break up the monotony with pictures!

Sunday I went to a futbol match, Boca Juniors v. Rosario Central.  I paid 250 pesos, which seems to be the going rate for tourists to go to a game.  It's probably much cheaper (~25 pesos?) to get a ticket without all the niceties.  But there were enough warnings about not doing it on your own for fear of getting shot and drawn and quartered for me to avoid that route.  For my 250 pesos, I was promised a ticket, transfer to the match a t-shirt raffle and a tour of the caminito district.  So the guy picked a bunch of us up in a van from our hostel and a few other groups from other hotels close to us.  Eugenio, our guide, gave us a little paper telling us what to expect.  On the English side of the piece of paper, it said, "Do not root for any team other than Boca.  It is a matter of life and death".  We had a nice chuckle about that.

We stopped at the caminito district which is apparently famous for having a picture on a postcard taken there.  That postcard was reproduced in spades on various items in the area.  I've also since noticed it elsewhere around BA.  Here's the first thing we saw when we got there.

From Buenos Aires

I thought we'd get to walk around, but Eugenio raced ahead and we tried to keep up with him while also taking in all the brightly colored buildings and the tango shows in the cafes.  Then we finally stopped at this one restaurant with a courtyard.  He explained something, but I was in the back so didn't hear.  By the time I passed him, he seemed to be tired of speaking English, and said, "just follow the others".  So I didn't really know what I was doing.  Apparently, no one else did either.  Anyways, after an hour or so, we finally made our way to the game.  When we made it to the stadium, it was empty and Boca was already playing Rosario. Eugenio wasn't really around, so we finally figured out that it was the reserves.

When the real players came on the field, the place ERUPTED.  Drums, cheering, singing, dancing.  It was amazing.  For you Sounders fans out there, imagine that one section with all the flags and the dancing.  Multiply their intensity by 10 and then fill all of Qwest with them.  Their passion was infectious and before long I was clapping and cheering and groaning.  Not quite singing though, because mi espanol is terrible.  Anyways, Boca seemed to be outmatched during the whole game, but finally blew it in the 80th minute or so when the goalie inexplicably went out to get a ball while the box was just full of people.  The ball got headed over to a Rosario forward and that's all she wrote.  This is towards the end of the game:
From Buenos Aires
After the game, as we knew from Eugenio's piece of paper, that being in GA, we would probably get in a fight with the visiting Rosario fans, so had to wait for half an hour before we could leave.  And I can see why. We were sitting under the Rosario section and as they descended, they were cheering and shouting things at us.  People in our section shouted back.  There was clearly no love lost.

Monday, I started class, and having had 4 days of spanish with Expanish, I can officially recommend against it for travelers.  I stupidly assumed that the class would be geared towards travelers, since the website was.  It was a Spanish class like in a school.  I learned  how to conjugate tener ("to have") and how to ask what someone's job is, but had to learn on my own things like, "can you help me?" and what different foods are.  But I met some people so that was fun.  Went to San Telmo for some steak.  Ordered it rare, even in English cuz the waiter would have none of my terrible Spanish.  And it came out between rare and medium-rare.  Tasty and big and cheap, but I've had better.  I'll wait to go to other cities before issuing a final verdict on steak though.

Took a Tango Class last night.  It was fun, despite me being singled out as the lone American who hadn't tangoed before.  An old guy named Manny, who I assume was frustrated with my complete lack of rhythm, came over and kept telling me to listen to the music.  It was very cute.  Old people dancing are cute.  Taking another one tonight.

Side notes: The people who work at the hostel love 90's music.  And they love to try to sing along to it despite not really knowing how to pronounce the words.  The Rio de la Plata is dirty.  People do their laundry there.  Went to a stand on the side of the road.  The items on the menu were hamburguesa and a bunch of other things i didn't understand.  I picked the first one, "bondiola", and ordered it, completa.  It ended up being a sandwich with some slices of beef (the bondiola part), and then ham and egg and cheese (the completa part).  It was muy delicioso!  Can't wait to order something else random from a dude on the side of the street.
Future notes:  Goin to Iguazu falls tomorrow.  18 hour bus ride, woot woot!  Mostly, I'm just excited to get out of the city.  Away from the noise and the honking.  Not sure about after that, maybe Puerto Madryn (loooong bus ride...).  Maybe Cordoba.

11 comments:

  1. That sandwich looks good, but I would crap my pants if a bird came that close to me. Sounds like you're having fun!

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  2. For my ex-coworkers out there... i logged into my computer the other day. i typed in my password to get onto the network. it was a sad day.

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  3. why the obsession with streak?

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  4. mean to say steak, not streak :)

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  5. sounds like you are having a great time! don't eat something that looks dirty though. that would suck to get sick from eating too much street food.

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  6. hey this blog i read posted about places they ate steak in buenos aires. i sent you an email of the posts but in case you can't read it for some reason, here are the places:
    A. La Cabrera Cabrera 5099 Palermo Soho "Buenos Aires' most talked about parrilla"
    B. Club Eros Uriarte 1609 Palermo Soho "favorite parrilla in the city"
    C. Cabaña Las Lilas Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 Puerto Madero "Like eating at 3rd street promenade in Santa Monica"
    D. La Brigada Estados Unidos 465 San Telmo "old-fashioned parrilla"
    E. Don Julio Guatemala 4691 Palermo Soho "a classic parrilla"

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  7. I agree with sky go to La Cabrera in Palermo Soho before you leave. I haven't eaten steak in 16 years and it was good enough to make into a cow eater again.

    Beth Ann

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  8. You should get a steak from 18 different restaurants and eat a steak every hour during your bus ride. It's the only way to ride.

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  9. Anonymous, why the obsession with steak? Seriously? Have you ever eaten one?

    Sky and Beth Ann, thanks for the recommendation! I'll definitely try it out when I get back to BA.

    Chris, if only I'd read your suggestion before the ride... you are a true man of genius.

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  10. dear friend, i am enjoying reading about your adventures! some of the descriptions of buenos aires remind me of little stories i had to read in my high school spanish book.. i suggest you ask the locals where the best place to get grub is. i bet there are some friendly folks. like, esp. esp. if they have outdoor markets, and if there are any nice-looking grannies selling things, maybe they'd have suggestions. ppl in the market were always helpful to me in spain. anyway.. keep the adventure stories coming! -friend

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  11. Hey Summie,

    So I was reading up on steaks in BA. Turns out the BA steak is more know for the flavor, not the tenderness. "BA steak is a nice lean and flavorful steak" says many websites. As I know all too well from my stomach rolls, tenderness = fat and they don't have as much there. So enjoy the flavor, but if you want melt in your mouth very rare steak, make a stop in Japan =) Oh also the Porteños prefer well done so that might be why your won't find many places that can/will cook steaks American rare.

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